2010 Château Rayas Château de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône Rouge Reserve

The cinsault component, which will make up about 35% of the final blend, is intensely spicy and precise, with lively red berry flavors and a hint of blood orange. The grenache, which makes up the majority of the wine, is deeper and more powerful, offering cherry and black raspberry qualities lifted by zesty minerality. This looks to be an outstanding Fonsalette and it shows plenty of the character of Rayas itself.

I tasted the various components of Ch Rayas's little red direct from dusty, grey cask and they were glorious. Cinsault – 35% of the final blend. Very pale yet very sweet and rich tasting. Quite chewy but it also seems quite evolved aromatically. Very slightly syrupy. Grenache Noir - Rich, pungent nose. Great focus and life. Sleek and only slightly syrupy. Very winning overall. Syrah - Strong, ripe, black pepper nose – very Syrah. Polished leather. Light and racy. Transparent. Well done! (JR)

The different cuvees that will go into the 2010 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone, which is dominated by Grenache, but includes considerable Cinsault, suggest the final wine should possess a deep ruby color along with a lovely nose of spring flowers, kirsch, licorice, earth, pepper and spice. Full-bodied with supple tannins, this charming 2010 should drink well for 20 years. (Not yet released) One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400