2011 Domaine Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles

Inky ruby. Fresh blueberry and floral scents are complicated by suggestions of black olive and cracked pepper. Smooth, broad and appealingly sweet, with good depth to its sappy black and blue fruit flavors; a jolt of tangy acidity provides shape and lift. Becomes spicier with air and finishes long and smooth, with fine-grained tannins contributing structure and focus.

There were only two cuvees produced, with no Les Vieilles Fontaines. The 2011 Cornas Les Chailles is totally thrilling and offers palate saturating liquid violets, sweet blackberry, cassis, mint and underbrush qualities to go with a medium to full-bodied, pure and seamless personality. Aged 18 months in neutral oak, this beauty is still youthfully primary, so give it another 2-3 years and enjoy it over the following decade. One of the leading estates in Cornas, Alain Voge, with more and more assistance from Alberic Mazoyer (formerly at Chapoutier), produces some of the most impressive, concentrated and rich wines of the appellation. Owning 17 acres in Cornas, spread across 12 different plots, and 15 acres in Saint Peray, this estate produces two whites from Saint Peray and up to three Cornas in any given vintage. In Cornas, the first cuvee is the Les Chailles, which comes from vines planted in the mid-1980s. Aged 18 months in neutral oak, it is the most forward and approachable of the releases. The old vine Vieilles Vignes cuvee sees more time in oak (some of which can be new) and comes from vines averaging 30 to90 years in age. Lastly, the tiny production and top wine, the Les Vieilles Fontaines, is a vineyard selection (normally from the Les Cotes and Chaillot lieux-dits) that sees up to 24 months in 15% new oak. Both the Vieilles Vignes and Les Vieilles Fontaines are serious, concentrated wines that will benefit from short-term cellaring. As a whole, vinification here is semi-modern, with plenty of destemming, and while the wines shows gorgeous polish and purity, they never lose their Cornas soul. These wines need to be on every reader’s short list. Importer: Citadel Trading Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 245-2844

Bright purple. A complex, attractively perfumed bouquet evokes dark berry preserves, olive tapenade, fresh violet and black cardamom. Spicy and expansive, with good depth to its sweet blackberry and mulberry flavors. Juicy acidity adds spine and lift. Picks up smokiness with air and finishes with very good clarity and silky tannins.