2018 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon

Coming all from the pure granite soils of the Bessards lieu-dit, on the western side of Hermitage, the 2018 Ermitage Le Pavillon is 100% Syrah that was all destemmed and aged 18 months in just 15% new French oak. This beauty has closed down since bottling and will need considerable bottle age, but it’s a beauty. Deep purple-hued, with a meaty, gamey bouquet of black and blue fruits, crushed rock, liquid violets, olives, and acacia flowers, this sensational wine hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a tight, backward mouthfeel, present tannins, and a great finish. As I wrote last year, this isn't for those seeking instant gratification and a solid 7-8 years of bottle age are warranted, but I suspect it will earn a triple-digit score at maturity and should have 40-50 years of longevity.

Suave, mineral- and spice-accented aromas of blackberry, cherry liqueur and pungent flowers show superb clarity and energetic lift. Sappy and penetrating in the mouth, displaying sharply defined black/blue fruit, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that turn livelier as the wine opens up. Finishes extremely long and minerally, with intense, spicy thrust, a repeating floral note and gently chewy tannins.

The 2018 Ermitage Le Pavillon is just as good yet has a more liquid rock-like character that needs to be tasted to be believed. Revealing an inky purple/blue color as well as incredible notes of blueberries, cassis, crushed rock, liquid violets, and new leather, this off-the-charts barrel sample has massive richness and depth, building tannins, and a finish that won't quit. It’s not for those looking for instant gratification but is a legendary Hermitage in the making. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.