2023 Château L'If

Based on 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc that's brought up 12-16 months in 50% new oak with the balance in once-used barrels, the 2023 L'If is medium ruby-hued and semi-opaque. A pretty perfume of framboise, ripe cherries, graphite, crushed stone, and spring flowers all emerge from the nose, and it's medium-bodied on the palate, with integrated acidity and ripe tannins. It picks up an almost gun flint-like minerality, and while it's not massive, it shines for its complexity, balance, and length. Give it 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 15-20 years. Drink 2029-2048.

The 2023 L'If is powerful, deep and beautifully layered. Blue/black fruit, new leather, licorice and cedar soar from the glass. A broad, ample wine with huge tannins, the 2023 appears to be destined for a long life. Time in the glass brings out hints of graphite and dried herbs that add complexity and a good bit of gravitas, too. Give this time.

The 2023 L'If comes only from the clay-limestone soils. It takes a few moments to settle in the bottle after being bottled in June. The limestone subsoil percolates through the black fruit, subtle marine and seaweed notes in the background. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins. Fine acidity, certainly more mineral-driven compared to other Saint-Émilion wines, a dash of black pepper and allspice toward the finish. This is nicely composed and should drink well for 12 to 15 years.