2013 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon

The star of the show in 2013 is the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon. Coming from the west and eastern edges of the Bessards lieu-dit and aged in 30% new French oak, its sensational black/blue color is followed by the awesome bouquet of cassis, smoked earth, graphite and caramelized meats that could come from no other terroir in the world. Full-bodied, massive, dense, sexy and with a liquid rock-like character that comes out with time in the glass, it has sweet tannin and a blockbuster finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. It needs 5-6 years of cellaring and will have 30-40 years of more of ultimate longevity.

Glass-staining purple. Sexy spice-accented black raspberry and violet candy aromas are complemented by star anise and olive, with suave vanilla and mineral nuances in the background. Shows excellent clarity and energy on the palate, with sappy, densely packed cherry and raspberry flavors becoming sweeter and deeper with air. Lithe and penetrating in the style of the best wines of the vintage, finishing with excellent lift and length and smooth, late-arriving tannins that add grip.

4 ha, 100% Syrah. This wine comes from lieu-dit Les Bessards. The plot has a specific geology: It is composed of a fine layer of sediment lying on granitic subsoil. The 65-year-old vines are located at an altitude of approximately 130 metres on the Hermitage hill, above the ruins of a stone house giving its name to the wine. With tiny yields (20 hl/ha), this is perhaps the most complex of the various Ermitage wines. Mid crimson with purple highlights. Very direct and fresh on the nose. Really quite low key and modest in structure though very well balanced. Gouleyant. Bone-dry finish. Very lively but a fresher Hermitage than usual. (JR)