2012 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Les Greffieux

A wine I've been lucky enough to have multiple times recently, the 2012 Ermitage les Greffieux is a full-bodied, deeply fruited, concentrated and blockbuster effort that's stays elegant, polished and balanced. Exhibiting incredible amounts of bloody meat, olive tapenade, campfire and sweet, expansive fruit, it needs 4-5 years in the cellar, and will drink nicely through 2034.

Starting off the four Hermitage releases, the stunning 2012 Ermitage Les Greffieux is a total blockbuster, offering aromas and flavors of cassis, blackberry, charred earth, olive and assorted wild herb nuances. Deeply concentrated and structured, yet with a voluptuous texture and decadent amounts of fruit, this beauty will need short-term cellaring and shine for two to three decades. This was an incredible tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his second hand man, Pierre-Henri Morel. Certainly one of the success stories in wine, which Robert Parker does a fabulous job of detailing in Issue 204, this estate goes from strength to strength in just about every appellation in the Rhone Valley. Looking specifically at Hermitage, Chapoutier owns a massive 64 acres, mostly on the famed Bessards lieu-dit, yet also with significant portions on Le Meal, L’Ermite and Les Greffieux, with smaller portions in the Beaume and Murets lieux-dits. From this he fashions five reds (Monier De La Sizeranne, Les Greffieux, Le Meal, Le Pavillon and L’Ermite) and four whites (Chante Alouette, Cuvee de l’Oree, Le Meal Blanc and L’Ermite Blanc), all of which are brilliant wines, with the best ranking up alongside the top wines in the world. In addition, his Saint Josephs (Les Granits and Le Clos) are some of the leading wines of the appellation (along with Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice and a few others), and his Cote Rotie La Mordoree, which comes from his 12 acres (split between the roughly defined Cote Blonde and Cote Brune regions), is always a classic example of the appellation. I was also able to taste through a full lineup of his Languedoc and Roussillon releases, all of which were impressive. I’ll review those wines in my 2014 coverage on those regions. Looking at the 2011 whites, these were all tasted by Robert Parker last year, but since I tasted through the lineup, I opted to include reviews here as well. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Very solid and savoury on the nose. Wonderfully ripe and opulent. Fresh and open. Really very gorgeous. Real lift. Surprisingly open. Blend of roast beef and dry chocolate! Hugely rewarding. (JR)