2003 Riesling Steinertal Smaragd

The mineral pungency inherent in the site plus a touch of botrytis make for a formidable, dense, tactilely challenging if not at all open and ingratiating riesling. Banana oil, tropical fruits, and sweaty-salty aromas. Voluminous and esterous on the palate, but with a rather grainy feel, with sharp notes of mineral salt and bitter grapefruit rind. This really rides your palate hard in the finish and you just have to hang on for dear life. Potential 2 stars.