2004 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc

Green-gold. Wild, pungent and leesy on the nose, with a potent bouquet of ripe tangerine, peach, melon, white truffle, smoky bacon and exotic spices. This could pass for a grand cru white Burgundy on the nose. Buttery and almost surreal in its orchard fruit and exotic spice expression, with a lush, velvety texture and explosive finish. The flavors refuse to let up, gaining intensity with air. This should be served by the spoonful.

Bright straw color. Remarkably expressive aromas reminded me of a grand cru white Burgundy from Puligny-Montrachet: smoky, mineral-laced scents of ripe pear, yellow plum, ruby red grapefruit, tangerine, buttered toast, hazelnut and licorice. At once weighty and remarkably silky, given energy and grip by bright acidity. The kaleidoscopic aromatic profile continues on the palate, where the bright mineral tones focus the flavors of pear, ripe apple, floral honey and buttery brioche. The finish simply won't quit.

A compelling, profoundly great wine is the 2004 Ermitage l’Ermite blanc. This is extremely limited in availability, but the light gold color offers up a liqueur of pears, wet rocks, and honey. Citrus oil, viscosity, extraordinary richness, and acidity make this wine (like all of these Ermitages, made from 100% old-vine Marsanne) just exquisite. There is nothing like these wines anywhere in the world, and the fact that the single vineyard Ermitages are aged in 100% new oak, yet show no trace of oak whatsoever is mind-boggling. This is exquisite wine that you either drink in its first 3-4 years or forget for two decades. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate April 2007