2009 Domaine de l'Arlot Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots covers every inch of the palate with layers of mineral-infused fruit. Here, too, the wine’s energy is really something to behold. The ripeness of the year comes through, but there is also considerable underlying structure. Readers will be tempted by the round, inviting finish, but who can wait will be amply rewarded. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. I was blown away by Domaine de l’Arlot’s 2009s when I tasted them from bottle. Most of the wines came in at the high end or above my projected scores from barrel. I found a purity and frankness in these wines that was compelling. Various American importers, including: A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Triage Wines Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (503) 236-6262; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Ansonia Wines, Washington D.C.; tel. (202) 506-4215; USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 941-7133

Medium red. Plum, mocha, cola and underbrush on the nose and palate, complicated by hints of peppery spices. Sweet, plump and on the soft side, with modest definition giving the wine a rather featureless aspect. Finishes with dusty tannins, pepper and spice notes and some smoky minerality. I wanted more energy.

This stood out quite clearly as the burgundy ringer – mostly for the tannin texture and the more savoury character. Fine red fruit, lightly spiced. Tiny hint of meatiness. Dry but very fine tannins and fresh acidity. Fine grained but still has the grippy finish that the Australian Pinots tasted alongside did not show. (JH)