2010 Copain Syrah Halcon

A model of pure, unrestrained energy, the 2010 Syrah Halcon is the most powerful and inward of the 2010 Syrahs I tasted. Today, the aromas and flavors are not particularly expressive. Instead, it is the wine’s structure that stands out most. Pure steeliness backs the intense fruit and equally imposing tannins. It will be interesting to see where the Halcon goes once it has been bottled. Guthrie used 75% whole clusters on the Halcon, and the wine might just need time to fully harmonize. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. I have to say, it is a bit strange to visit Wells Guthrie’s beautiful Copain winery in Healdsburg, as none of the wines are made from fruit grown on the estate! Guthrie prefers to source fruit from cooler parts of Sonoma, most notably Anderson Valley and Yorkville Highlands. Today the Copain wines are mid-weight, gracious and delicate in style, a far cry from a few years back, when they were much more overt. In cold years like 2010 and 2011, some of the wines are a touch on the fragile side. Readers on a budget should be sure to check out the Tous Ensemble range, as those wines deliver tremendous quality for the money. All of 2011s I tasted from tank were scheduled to be bottled a few days after my visit. Tel. (707) 541-7474

(12.8% alcohol): Dark purple. Wild, intensely perfumed aromas of cassis, cherry compote, violet, black olive and star anise, with a strong undertone of smoky minerality. Deep, sappy and precise, offering energetic dark berry and floral pastille flavors and striking spiciness. Gains sweetness and weight with air and finishes with excellent clarity and an echo of candied flowers.

The 2010 Syrah Halcon is one of the bigger wines in this lineup. Blackberries, grilled herbs, spices and black olives are some of the nuances that flow in this deep, richly textured Syrah. Layers of flavor build effortlessly to the powerful, virile finish. There is plenty of varietal character here.