2021 Keller Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Kabinett

This first-ever Abtserde Kabinett leads with ripe, high-toned evocations of pear and cherry accompanied by chamomile, sea breeze and chalk dust. The palate turns the amazing trick of combining liqueur-like richness and palpable density with animating brightness and utmost delicacy. As ever with Keller Kabinetts, sweetness is entirely supportive but something you scarcely notice, so completely has the sugar already insinuated itself, and so attention-riveting are the wine’s nuances and paradoxical juxtapositions of flavor. Cherry pit, chalk, stone and sea salt serve for counterpoint in a head-spinningly complex, kaleidoscopic finish. You may need a moment afterward to collect your thoughts. But after that, I guarantee you will be back for the next sip!