2007 Château Rayas Château de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône Syrah Reserve

One of the rarest wines from the Rayas/Fonsalette portfolio is always the Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Syrah. Made from vines grown on a north-facing, cool-climate slope from Syrah cuttings taken from the vineyards of the famous Chave family in Mauves in Tain Hermitage, the 2007 pushes animalistic characteristics to a maximum, but pulls back before it becomes too eccentric or idiosyncratic. This dark purple wine displays notes of bouquet garni, tapenade, raw beef, smoked duck, and plenty of cassis, black currant and blackberry fruit. Full-bodied, opulent, and possessing the 2007’s exuberance and low acidity but considerable glycerin and alcohol, this is a stunning Syrah that should drink well for 20-25 years. I base this time line on the fact that the 1978 Cuvee Syrah, their debut vintage, is still remarkably healthy and just approaching full maturity. The current releases of Fonsalette include the 2007 and 2008 Cotes du Rhone, as the 2009s will not be released until next year, and the 2010s the year after. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Component #1, from a classic galets roules (rounded stones) vineyard: Pungent cherry and garrigue aromas are expansive and subtly smoky. Very rich, with creamy cherry and dark berry flavors, gently chewy texture and a late note of cracked pepper. Component #2, from sandy soil only meters from the galets site: Intensely perfumed bouquet of red and dark berries, violet, minerals and cola. Supple red berry flavors are impressively precise, with a strong mineral undercurrent. (Reynaud's Cotes du Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette blend of grenache, cinsault and syrah was also extremely impressive in November, suggesting 92-94 potential.)

Two lots here, the first from galets roulés, the big stones, on red soils. It smelt very much of Syrah but markedly less concentrated than the red Rayas 2007 served immediately before it. Polished, subtle, full of energy and explosive and sinewy in the mouth. The second sample came from deep sandy soils and was darker in colour and much more obviously tannic. This will need much more time than the regular cuvée. Definitely made of sterner, and possibly less distinctive, stuff but there is impressive muscle. (JR)