2005 Château Rayas Château de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône Syrah Reserve

The 2006 seems jagged at this stage, and I would rather put my money on what certainly will be a great one, the 2005 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Syrah. Speaking of that wine, I think this is the best cuvee of Syrah that Emmanuel Reynaud has made at the estate. Dense purple in color, with a glorious nose of smoked duck, meat juices, truffle, animal fur, and copious quantities of blackberry and cassis, this wine is super-rich, dense, thick, and juicy, yet all of that fruit and glycerin nearly hides some substantial tannins. This wine should evolve effortlessly for 20-25 years and is a superb expression of Syrah in the southern Rhone. This great estate has been going through a transitional period, with some replanting in their vineyards, and of course the enormous challenge of replacing the legendary proprietor and winemaker, the late Jacques Reynaud, who passed away in the winter of 1997. Replaced by his nephew Emmanuel Reynaud, who had worked closely with his uncle, the early vintages, as I reported on in this publication, were good but hardly exciting. Reason to be concerned about the direction in which the estate was going was a legitimate worry. The 1998, 1999, and 2000 vintages were vintages where Rayas was well behind the pack of top producers in Chateauneuf du Pape. However, with that said, the tasting I did with Emmanuel Reynaud in late August was the best tasting I have done with him in a decade, and while it may be premature to say that Rayas is back to the greatness of Jacques Reynaud, Emmanuel has made some fabulous wines that are going to be released over the next several years. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Inky ruby. Powerful cherry and blackcurrant on the nose, with a strong licorice note. Intense kirsch and anise flavors are complicated by a mineral accent and framed by solid tannins. Serious, muscular and structured wine, finishing with bitter cherry and espresso notes. This will need time.

Gorgeous all around, with a gamey, wild core of dark Syrah fruit, lavender, pepper, spiced meats, and truffle, with possibly with even a hint of Cornas like bacon fat, the 2005 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Cuvée Syrah is medium to full-bodied, beautifully fruited, and fresh on the palate. It has a classic, structured feel, as well as a broad, chewy finish that delivers plenty of grip and ripe tannin. A top southern Rhône Syrah, this beauty will continue to shine for another decade or more.