2008 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru

A striking sense of distilled pit fruits parallels the suggestions of their confiture in the intense nose of Meo-Camuzet’s 2008 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux (tasted from thank), and on the palate there is both a bright primary juiciness and a saline-carnal savor more prominent than in any other wine of the vintage that I tasted from this estate, resulting in a truly saliva-inducing, lip-smacking finish. Black pepper and crushed stone notes add a sense of finishing bite. While less seductively sweet or multi-faceted – today, at least – than the corresponding Brulees, there will be those (of whom I am one) who would be even more inclined to put their money (if they had the requisite sort of money) on this wine instead. Certainly though, six or more years in cellar and expectations of 15 or more year’s life span are in order. “Parantoux always retains lots of acidity and freshness,” notes Nicolas Meo, “and I always harvest it last, whereas I have taken to harvesting Les Brulees first.” Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25