2012 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune

Still in barrel, the tiny production 2012 Cote Rotie Cote Brune (which was first made in 1976) offers a gorgeous floral, kirsch, blackberry and peppery bouquet to go with a full-bodied, surprisingly open, sexy feel on the palate. It's decidedly more showy and perfumed now that a year ago, but still has fabulous mid-palate depth, beautiful concentration and building tannin. It should drink nicely with short-term cellaring and keep for two decades.

The 2,000-bottle 2012 Cote Rotie Cote Brune (which sees slightly more new oak) has an additional layer of texture and richness. Also tasted out of barrel, it offers up searing white pepper, spring flowers, edgy minerality and ample dark fruit characteristics to go with full-bodied richness on the palate. Chewy, structured and yet also with an understated elegance that comes out with time in the glass, it will require a handful of years over the straight Cote Rotie, and have an easy 20-25 years of longevity. Another bastillion of traditional winemaking, Jean-Paul Jamet fashions two Cote Roties from his roughly 17 acres of vines, located mostly on the schist soils in the northern part of the appellation. The winemaking here includes very little destemming, pump overs as opposed to punch downs, and aging in a combination of demi-muid and barrel, with roughly 15% new. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 239-1275

The 2,000-bottle 2012 Cote Rotie Cote Brune (which sees slightly more new oak) has an additional layer of texture and richness. Also tasted out of barrel, it offers up searing white pepper, spring flowers, edgy minerality and ample dark fruit characteristics to go with full-bodied richness on the palate. Chewy, structured and yet also with an understated elegance that comes out with time in the glass, it will require a handful of years over the straight Cote Rotie, and have an easy 20-25 years of longevity. Dec 2013, www.robertparker.com