2005 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Les Romains

From a single, 60 year old flint-rich (silex) vineyard and raised in large barrels, the Vacheron’s prestige bottling of 2005 Sancerre Les Romains smells enticingly of peach, purple plum, red currant, papaya and flowers. Waxy in texture, with lees-induced richness and complexity, and with lemon oil and subtle lanolin notes impinging on its rich fruit matrix, this finishes with subtle sweetness and delightfully-lingering peach, papaya, coriander, caraway and citrus zest. The oak component goes largely unnoticed, save for its more subtle influences via the lees and oxidation. Would that more wooded Sancerres were this successful. The Vacherons are particularly proud of their Pinot Noir, for which they also receive excellent press. I must say these reds are impressively dense, but for me somewhat lacking in generosity of fruit or tenderness. A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Carborro, NC; tel. (919) 932-3450. Also, a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93