2005 Domaine Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon SGN

Hand-picked, 100% botrytised Chenin Blanc from vines averaging 40 years of age which are planted to soils containing sedimentary rock, slate and coal. Philippe is Parisian. Moved to the Loire in the seventies. Biodynamic. 9.5-ha estate on schist and quartz. 2,000 bottles made. RS 205 g/l. Turning towards amber. Smells like gripe water! Needs time in a decanter to open up. Rose petals and cloves, toffee and dulce de leche. Quite extraordinary! Lusciously sweet. My top lip broke out into a sweat (should I say 'glow'?!). Spices brushed in a kind of golden-metal burnish. Wonderful with walnuts and smoked cheese. 15 years old … these are ageless wines.  GV  (TC)