2012 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Richebourg Grand Cru

The 2012 Richebourg towers on the palate with huge tannins and almost a severe expression of structure. There is gorgeous depth and brightness in the fruit, but the tannins are searing in their intensity. Still, there is a crystalline purity to the flavors here that is totally compelling. I can't imagine the 2012 drinking well before its 15th birthday, and even that is likely to be optimistic.

The 2012 Richebourg Grand Cru is reticent at first, but opens to reveal broody, saturnine black fruit infused with wild heather and minerals. Yet it remains a tight aromatic fist. The palate is very structured with firm backbone, very masculine, fine acidity with a very tannic, very spicy finish. This will need a decade in bottle at least. This is truly a vin de garde. Domaine Meo-Camuzet boasts one of the most enviable portfolios in Vosne-Romanee, crowned by Richebourg Grand Cru and Cros Parantoux, the latter essentially grand cru in all but name thanks to the late Henri Jayer, who decided that vines might profit more from the land than a few veg. I have been following the wines for over a decade and visiting Jean-Nicolas Meo’s cellar just down the road from Bernard Gros. Together we tasted through both his negociant and domaine bottlings, partly from pre-prepared samples and others directly from barrel. He told me he had been surprised at the changes in pH post-malo-lactic fermentation, possibly due to a precipitation of potassium that had made the wines feel rounder. Certainly some of the cuvees did have a certain “sumptuousness” about them, but for the most part that tannins were present and correct, lending backbone to offset the occasionally intense fruit. Readers should note that I took a video of Jean-Nicolas discussing the vintage in his cellars, so please access this for further insight. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

This is even more reserved than the Cros and the cool nose requires aggressive swirling to liberate the gorgeously complex and highly spiced aromas of violets, rose petal, anise and clove along with cassis and plum scents. There is exceptionally good richness to the supple yet super intense and very serious broad-shouldered flavors that possess outstanding concentration before culminating in an explosive finish that is taut and even more persistent. This powerful and overtly austere effort is a true 'wow' wine but one that will most assuredly not drink well young. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2032+