2007 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Richebourg Grand Cru

The 2007 Richebourg Grand Cru from Domaine Méo-Camuzet is the most modern on the nose, the oak more prominent than in the Chambertin, which has completely subsumed the modest use of new wood. Yet, over two or three hours that oak becomes assimilated, revealing aromatics that are beguilingly crystalline and precise; a very subtle ferrous scent emerges with time. The palate is silky-smooth, texturally the most seductive of all five reds, and the fruit a little darker, perhaps. Its sensuality is matched by its mineralité and the length is undeniably impressive. While Rousseau’s Chambertin started out as the front runner earlier in the dinner, I was smitten by this regal Richebourg. Jean-Nicolas Méo has overseen a brilliant wine.

Good deep, saturated red. Black raspberry, dark cherry and spicy oak on the nose. Densely packed, pure and juicy but quite shy today, like many of these wines. Ripe acidity contributes to a finesse of texture, but this is still a rather masculine and closed style of wine, with solid underlying structure. Plenty of sap here.

A highly floral, restrained, cool, pure, elegant and soaring nose offers up a gorgeous mix of dark berry fruit and violet notes that complement to perfection the rich and supple broad-shouldered mineral-driven flavors that ooze with dry extract and culminate in a balanced, textured, detailed and explosive finish that really makes a statement. This is a balanced and serious Richebourg that also possesses that 'wow' factor yet does not lack for a sense of finesse. As it usually is, this is the class of the range in 2007. Allen Meadows, Burghound Jan01,2009