2015 Keller Dalsheimer Burgel Spätburgunder Grosses Gewachs

Raspberry red of medium intensity, purple rim. Nose opens with a fine cherry fragrance, and with more air comes more fruit, cassis, not pungent, but in a delightfully restrained way. Obviously, Klaus Peter has used barriques, but in such a subtle way that you have to sniff hard to detect a mere hint of cigar box. The palate confirms that the oak has been toasted most gently, leaving the taste buds to concentrate on wonderfully pure fruit. Tannins are firm but not furry, and their subtle bitter expression works in perfect harmony with an animating acidity. Fine spices and a delicate salty tang add value to a long finish. (MS)

Penetrating ripe red berry aromas mingle with a faintly coniferous green-resinous note that manages to integrate itself successfully on the palate. Hints of sea breeze and leather complete the aromatic profile and, similarly, have their savory counterparts on a silken-textured palate. A mouthwatering suggestion of veal stock adds to the appeal of a sappy, impressively persistent, slightly toasty-oak-inflected finish kept lively by irrepressibly juicy tang of cherry and red currant. This is going to be a real charmer as it matures, and is certainly a wine that does delicious justice to Pinot’s fruity, herbal, animal and mineral dimensions.