2003 Château de la Negly La Porte du Ciel

Through ruthless control of yields, meticulous selectivity, and a relentlessly envelope-pushing approach to ripening their fruit and extracting its flavors, Jean Paux-Rosset and his oenologist Claude Gros have over the past decade set new standards for the entire Languedoc, not just their La Clape neighborhood. Negly’s 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape La Port du Ciel is their all-stops-pulled, 300-case lot of pure Syrah, and believe me the resulting Clape will get your attention – though some will enjoy the effect more than others. For a wine of exceedingly high pH and bottled with low sulfur, it is notably free of volatility. Creme de cassis, strawberry-rhubarb preserves, brown spices and wood smoke surge from the glass. In the mouth, a viscous meld of fruit preserves, nutmeg, soy, coffee, coconut, chocolate, tar, and smoked meat is practically suffocating in its enveloping richness, and the finish, too, may leave you gasping for breath. The sheer sweetness and seamless ripeness on display here are amazing, and if there is a trace of finishing warmth, that is neither stylistically discordant nor – given 16.5% alcohol – surprising. Imported by Jeffrey Davies Signature Selections, Highland Park, IL; tel. (847) 403-7215