2004 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux

The 2004 Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux from Clos Rougeard has an entrancing nose with perfumed red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of oxtail and black truffle emerging with time and developing a Bordeaux-like scent, which is not totally unsurprising given the Cabernet Franc in question. The palate is medium-bodied with exquisite balance and a taut line of acidity but marked by a salinity that revitalises the senses. I notice a touch of menthol with time as it fans out gloriously on the finish. At its peak now, but this Saumur-Champigny will give another 20 years’ drinking pleasure.