2006 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château

The Liger-Belair 2006 Vosne Romanee Clos Du Chateau possesses a striking, high-toned nose of red fruit distillates, ripe peach, fruit pit piquancy, and exotic, pungent spices – signs which – were this a white wine, at least – I would interpret as subtle botrytization. The palate is unperturbed by tannins but the finish here – with ginger, fruit pits, and tart berry skins predominating – is less succulent or caressing than in the corresponding Les Colombiere", not to mention less village-typical. "To my mind, it's a bit more Chambolle" than Vosne, opines Liger-Belair, "and I love that it's so different, and its structure. It's not as generous as the Colombiere, but has more aging potential." I require convincing on that last point, but certainly this will be fascinating to follow for at least 3-4 years. Louis-Michel Liger-Belair reported higher potential alcohol levels this year than in 2005, but also maintains that the nature of the ambient yeasts in 2006 accounted for a thankfully inefficient conversion, so that finished alcohols were not noticeably higher. Triage in his cellars, he maintains, was and will in future vintages remain "two to three percent," thanks to restriction of yields and meticulous vine management. Liger-Belair remains a proponent of gentle extraction but high levels of new wood. What I misleadingly announced in issue 170 as "a new negociant side of the business" is in fact an arrangement whereby Liger-Belair himself farms around 15 acres that had previously been tended by a grower who once enjoyed a share-cropping arrangement with Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (during the long period when their wines were pledged to Bouchard). Half of the acreage in question yields Bourgogne and is genuinely sold as a negociant project, but the rest will be treated to the domaine's vine-papering, biodynamic regimen, including the horse plowing of whose revival they were among the earliest and most conspicuous proponents. Liger-Belair reminds me, however, that it will take time for the effect of this attention to be felt. Beginning with this vintage also, all of the Liger-Belair monopole La Romanee and all of their Vosne Reignots are estate-bottled, none being sold any longer to Bouchard. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

Good medium red. Expressive, nuanced nose offers redcurrant, spices and dried flowers. Quite open in the mouth, with a high-toned quality to the redcurrant, spice and iron flavors. This offers the finesse of texture of a Chambolle, but with firmer tannins.

An expressive nose of lower register blue berry, violet, warm earth, stone and distinct Asian style spice hints slides gracefully into floral-infused medium-bodied lacy flavors that offer very good richness and ample volume on the admirably intense, plumy, linear and driving finish. Terrific quality for a villages level wine and again, certainly worth considering. *Outstanding*