2018 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru

Deep purplish crimson. Very embryonic. Lots of tannins in evidence today and they rather smother the fruit, though clearly Sebastien has no doubt about this wine’s future to judge from the price. Pretty hard work at present. (JR)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has the most cerebral nose of any Cathiard Premier Cru, scents of black fruit intermingling with ash, sous-bois and light iodine scents. It also seems the most mercurial in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, unerring symmetry and a killer sense of symmetry that is utterly beguiling. It is endowed with the backbone one expects from a Malconsorts and a persistence all of its own. Heavenly.