2019 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon

The star of the show as well as one of the wines of this great vintage, the 2019 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes all from broken granite soils of the Bessards lieu-dit and was all destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and brought up in just 15% new French oak, with a tiny amount in a small foudre as well. The level of new oak continues to plummet at this estate, which around a decade ago or more was utilizing 100% new barrels. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it’s a perfect example of the Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove saying and has incredible opulence paired with precision and finesse. Giving up both blue and black fruits as well as powdered stone, violets, scorched earth, and subtle smoke, this is pure Hermitage magic and Syrah doesn’t get any better. It needs at least 7-8 years (a decade would be better) of bottle age and will be a 50-year wine.

Massively concentrated and tannic, Chapoutier's 2019 Ermitage le Pavillon looks as if it will take a few more years to come around than the other selections parcellaires. The initial scents of crushed stone and cassis are intriguing, but this full-bodied wine comes across almost cold and reserved yet immensely promising. On this occasion, Michel Chapoutier pronounced it "a tea of granite," which describes it fairly well, although hints of its future charms can be seen on the long, licorice-tinged and mouthwatering finish.

100% Syrah. Cask sample. Tasted at the domaine. Far more generous, approachable aromatics than Le Méal – violet and crushed black peppercorn. Vibrant and rich palate with sandalwood and a real sense of minerality alongside Szechuan peppercorn and sweet tobacco – this feels very much together, the tannins are forward and present but really well managed. A mighty wine that needs considerable time. (AC)