2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

Very pale. Very introvert on the nose – a little bit of honey and great delicacy but a bit of funkiness. Featherlight. Still quite chewy on the end. (JR)

So pungent! Really very extreme – perhaps too sulphurous. I tasted this recently in my MW exam and it perplexed me then too. (RH)

Alluring scents of honeysuckle and clover mingled with yeastiness; bittersweet notes of apple pip and skin, render the Prum 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett an invigorating treat. Very subtly creamy, it nevertheless puts its emphasis on refreshment and clarity of flavors, with stony mineral character and inner-mouth floral perfume clearly discernable through gossamer folds of fruit. This finishes with terrific persistence yet understatement. A particularly restrained sense of sweetness and efficacious acids suggest to me a wine that could be enjoyed more in its first 3-5 years than is usually the case with Prum Rieslings. But it ought to keep well for at least 15 years. The Prums noted that their 2009s (harvested from mid-October to mid-November) were unusually expressive at a young age – even in September when I tasted, little more than a month after most of them were bottled – in that respect contrasting decisively, they thought, with the recalcitrant 2008s. (That’s their opinion, please note. My own enthusiastic account of their young 2008s in issue 187 testifies to my belief that those wines were themselves testifying eloquently, even though in general 2008s were said by their growers to be slow to open.) “Although the acids are very ripe,” notes Manfred Prum of his 2009s – drawing parallels with 1997 – “they are also very present.” This latest collection tops out with Eiswein from both Bernkastel and Graach (which makes two from the Himmelreich in one year, since the 2008 was picked in January, 2009) and a B.A. (or – depending on how it evolves – it may be labeled as T.B.A.) from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, none of which I have tasted. (In keeping with past practice, I am not normally privy to the A.P.#s of every wine I taste from this collection, and the Prums remain anxious to assure me and my readers that whenever more than one lot of the same name in Kabinett or non-auction Spatlese range is bottled care is exercised to see that the differences will be minimal. In the case of Auslesen, I have however confirmed and included A.P.#s in any instances of two otherwise eponymous wines.) Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. 918 622 0424 and Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA tel. 800 596 9463