2020 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
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Note di degustazione
While still a terrific wine that has come in at the upper end of my barrel-sample rating, I must confess to a modest level of disappointment in the 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle. On the nose, it's gently cedary, with crushed stone and pencil shavings accenting dark, plummy fruit, plus mocha, earth and black olives. It's full-bodied but not that rich or concentrated, with an open-knit feel and a shortage of energy and drive on the finish. Collectors may want to enjoy this over the (relatively) near term while waiting for their more-promising 2019s to mature.
Punteggi della critica
James Lawther MW, jancisrobinson.com
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The flagship 2020 Hermitage La Chapelle was bottled in June and, as usual, comes mostly from the Le Méal lieu-dit but also includes portions from Bessards as well. Deep purple-hued, with wonderful notes of crème de cassis, graphite, incense, and spice, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a supple, elegant texture, fine tannins, and a great finish. It doesn't have the sheer density or power of, say, the 2010 or 2015, but it shines for its purity and balance and is a gorgeous Hermitage. While the Maison Bleue is more opulent and expansive, this is the long-distance runner. Give bottles 4-6 years at a minimum and enjoy over the following two decades.
Glass-staining purple. Assertively perfumed cassis, cherry liqueur, fruitcake and floral aromas take on espresso, olive and smoky bacon accents with aeration. Juicy, chewy and energetic on the palate, offering densely packed, alluringly sweet black and blue fruit preserve, floral pastille, licorice and mocha flavors that become deeper and spicier as the wine slowly stretches out. The floral and mineral notes repeat emphatically on a wonderfully long, juicy and mineral-dominated finish that's framed by building, well-wrought tannins.
Mostly Marsanne and Roussanne selected from Chevalier de Sterimberg. First vintage was 2001, previous vintage 2014. Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again. (RH)