2003 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal

The best bottle I've had, the still inky-purple 2003 Ermitage le Meal was firing on all cylinders on this occasion and was certainly a match for the 2009 and 2010. Tasting like a dry vintage port, yet with no sensation of heat or alcohol, it offers an insane bouquet of cassis, cracked pepper, violets, and mint that's literally overflowing the glass. Full-bodied, uber concentrated, voluptuous and still fresh and pure, it's a heavenly example of this killer terroir that will continue to knock your socks off for another 2-3 decades.

Red-ruby color. Rich, dense and powerful on the nose, with aromas of mineral-laced cassis and smoky tobacco. Deep, velvety and lush, but with compelling focus and precision to the flavors of cherry compote, redcurrant and cassis. Finishes suave, silky and unflagging, with serious heft and weight. (JR)