1998 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque

7% Viognier. 42 months in 100% new barriques. 400 c/s. La Turque first bottled 1985. Deep garnet core with a pinkish rim. Velvety sweet and sweetly spiced. Smells expensive. Lots of oak spice but it doesn't overwhelm the fruit. Opens up to a lovely perfume. Dry and firm and tannins catches around the side of your mouth at first and then make your mouth water. A baby. Taut and finely structured. Refined and very long. Long, sweet aftertaste. Really mouthwatering but I think it will get smoother. (JH)

Mid crimson – spicy nose. Sweet, dusty nose without the freshness of the Mouline. This is for admirers of concentration rather than finesse. Very dusty, severe, grainy tannins. Severe overall at the moment I feel as though I am tasting oak rather than fruit here. Not especially Côte Rotie at all… Shame. Competent winemaking but of an international sort. Jagged. (JR)

The 1998 Cote Rotie La Turque may end up being a perfect wine. Its smoky black fruits intermixed with licorice, roasted meats, cassis, and flowers create an explosive, exotic perfume. The wine reveals considerable tannin, immense structure, and potentially legendary depth as well as intensity. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2022. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153