1982 Château Cheval Blanc

Starts out with cooling waves of cold ash and mint leaf, suspended for a few moments before unrolling to reveal warmer campfire, liqourice, raspberry puree, white pepper and a blast of white truffle. Fully open, welcome and ready for sharing its pleasures, but the tannins are still cradling the fruit, and this is just so moreish, hard to resist. The generous yields that were typical of 1982 meant Cheval saw a production of 54.3hl/h. Harvest September 20 to October 2, Jacques Hebrard director and owner, with Gilles Pauquet consultant winemaker and cellar master the legendary Gaston Vaissière, who worked at the estate from 1943 to 1986.

The 1982 Cheval Blanc is a sumptuous, sensual wine, bursting with aromas of sweet raspberries, orange rind, dried flowers, cedar box, black truffles, vine smoke and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it's supple and seamless, with a fleshy mid-palate, melting tannins and a long, expansive finish. As is often the case at this address, at age 40, it's the wine's Cabernet Franc component that really dominates its personality, meaning that it gratifies the intellect as completely as it does the senses. I've drunk the 1982 Cheval three times this year, and it has been remarkably consistently brilliant.