2010 Château Canon

High alcohol but this takes it in its stride. A tiny trace of heat offset by delicious juice running underneath, and plenty of spiced plum and blackberry fruits, edges of pomegranate and slate. Good quality, a great Canon if with a touch less precision than you will find in recent years - but these are wines that stand the test of time, and that will offer endless opportunities for joy.

The 2010 Château Canon is interesting to revisit today, especially considering the vintages that have come after it, some of which will take their place among the greatest ever made here. Somber in breeding, the 2010 shows more darkness and ripeness than the wines of today, with a stronger oak imprint, all of which serve to blur some of the definition that is such a Canon signature. From time to time, some of the finesse of Canon emerges, as do some characteristic Cabernet Franc inflections, yet the 2010 feels a bit imprisoned by the style of the era in which it was made. The bouquet and overall profile suggest that the 2010 has arrived at an early plateau of maturity. I imagine it will develop for many years to come, but I also don’t see meaningful improvement in the cards.

Black chocolate, liqourice, black cherries and cassis, tons of spice. Still pretty closed right now, although the depths become clear as it opens, with tannins tugging on the close of play, demanding just a few more minutes of your attention. Hint of tobacco and tomato leaf alongside eucalpytus and mint highlight a greener side, and give an excellent counterbalance to the ripeness, adding complexity and interest. At the beginning of its drinking window, but no rush. This was the last vintage where Clos Canon came from plots within Château Canon. Harvest September 27 to October 4, 35hl/h yield, 60% new oak.