1998 Château Troplong-Mondot

A decade later from the last wine we have tasted in this vertical, and the regime had changed quite significanty at Troplong. Clear oak toasting on the nose, melted and charming at this point, but still in evidence. This remains young, with an emphasis on liqourice root, firm and confident tannins and plenty of fresh mint and eucalyptus notes. Silky texture, great stuff, a few angular lines to the tannins suggests that this will further improve from here, but no question that it is at a great moment to enjoy drinking. Tobacco, grilled almonds, savoury black fruits, again a slight edge of brett, but a second bottle is cleaner and enjoyable. 100% new oak, Michel Rolland consultant.

From a great right-bank year, this is a burly, imposing wine with weight, plush, ripe dark fruit but all kept in check by lovely acidity and a leafy, herbal edge. The initial hit on the palate is upfront and showy – the mid palate lacks some concentration compared with some later wines. Impressive. (AWH)