2012 Forster Kirchenstuck Grosses Gewachs

Apricot, mandarin and vanilla aromas give a clear indication of the use of oak in the vinification not only of this, but almost all of von Winning’s Grosse Gewächse. Terroir does not always come through on the great growths in their infant stage, but overtones of oak certainly make it even more difficult. It cannot be denied that at von Winning this is done in a most tasteful way, but it makes it more difficult for Riesling to demonstrate its typicity. Having said all this, hard work, concentration and abandoning bias enable the taster to recognise a great substance and undeniable power behind the curtain of wood. The balancing act on the tight rope between oak and acidity has been managed with great skill. It cannot be denied that the Kirchenstück has great potential, and once its Riesling character becomes more defined, it may well be deserving of a higher score. (MS)