1999 Barca Velha

From magnum. 45% Touriga Francesa (now Touriga Franca), 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Nacional, 5% Tinto Cão. 12–18 months in new 225-litre Portuguese oak barrels. TA 5.3 g/l, pH 3.45. According to Sogrape's tasting booklet, 'The 1999 vintage in the Douro began with a very dry winter and spring with above-average temperatures, especially in February and March, which led to early budburst. The lack of rainfall led to water stress in the vines as early as budburst, which worsened in the following months, negatively impacting flowering and fruit set. In August and September, precipitation levels were significantly higher than normal, which helped balance the ripening process and ensured good development of the bunches. The harvest began on 10 September in the Douro Superior.' First vintage after they had stopped using fruit from Val Meão. A little more red in the colour than in the 1982 but not that much considering the difference in age. Deep garnet with brick rim. So much fruit still evident, both red and black, spicy, and only the start of tertiary maturity and undergrowth. Some peppery spice. Smells so sweet with a touch of vanilla. Lovely grip, gradually resolving and perfectly balanced between structure and fruit sweetness. Wonderful harmony, depth and length and still such a long way to go. The oak sweetness is more evident than in the 1982 and the 2015. Not quite as refined as the 1982 but still has a long life ahead. The tannins are very fine from bottle ageing but it feels as if they were less refined at the outset compared with the 1982. (JH)