2012 Gruner Veltliner Lamm

Mossy, alkaline and saline suggestions already in the nose of the Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Gruner Veltliner Lamm set the tone for another minerally complex exemplar of its cepage and terroir whose juicy white peach fruit is transparent to such nuances in a Riesling-reminiscent manner. The combination of glycerol richness and sheer extract on display here lends a faint and supportive suggestion of sweetness and caramelization that will doubtless be enhanced by time in bottle, of which this offering can certainly stand more than a decade. “Since 2006 I have turned my back on alcohol,” notes Moosbrugger as we taste this wine of barely 13.5%, while noting that despite the aforementioned suggestion of sweetness, it is in fact analytically “bone” dry. Subtle bitterness of quinine and fruit pit lends contrast and counterpoint in a lingering, resonant finish. Plan to follow some through 2022. Largely due to May frost, Michael Moosbrugger experienced in 2012 the smallest harvest since he took over Schloss Gobelsburg (and debuted as a vintner) in 1996. Despite this small crop and largely balmy conditions, harvest still stretched until the tenth of November. “One reason for that,” he admits, “is the red wines, because we always begin with them to avoid over-ripeness or danger of rot, and for red wine you have to harvest at precisely the right time, especially with St. Laurent” rather than enjoying the flexibility offered by Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. In the event, the whites here this year seldom significantly exceeded 13% in alcohol. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300