1990 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhone

Heady, round, soft, flattering. In a social setting in Provence this could be lovely but it's a bit out of its milieu in a skyscraper office in Canary Wharf and seems just a little rustic. Since then of course the appellation used by Eloi Durrbach at Trevallon has evolved. (JR)

This equal blend of Syrah and Cabernet turned out to be nine years older than the 1999 I was expecting. It was fun to see a fully mature wine but this bottle seemed on the way down and very slightly rustic. The tannins I fear will dominate the fruit from now on. Quite different flavours from the red wines tasted beforehand but a useful introduction to the Shiraz-dominated wine that followed. (JR)

I am convinced the 1990 is the best Trevellon to date. It possesses an opaque purple color, a huge nose of minerals and cassis, full-bodied, lusciously rich, beautifully balanced flavors buttressed by adequate acidity, moderate tannin, and plenty of glycerin. The finish is long and exhilarating. Still an infant in terms of its development, this wine already makes a gorgeous drink. Based on previous efforts, it should last for a decade or more - if you can keep your hands off it. The wine was bottled unfiltered, so expect considerable sediment to develop. Importer: Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA.