2012 Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs

We often find that certain vineyards excel in the expression of certain properties or strengths. The Morstein doesn’t. To me, in a good vintage, like 2012, it exemplifies a Grosses Gewächs with a superb balance of manifold components, none of which stand out, all perfectly integrated. At the beginning stands a subtle fragrance of citrus fruit, at the end a complex display of minerality. In between these bookends of good taste we are treated to a lively expression of acidity, zesty exhibition of fruit, delicate sprinkling of green herbs and exotic spices. The texture is creamy, the body well toned and the stance graceful. (MS)