1998 Dalsheimer Hubacker Auslese

A warm summer and plenty of rain in the autumn laid the foundation for a fair share of botrytis, enough to satisfy Klaus Keller’s requirements for the style of dry Riesling he wanted to produce. This one can already tell by the deep golden colour, and it is also confirmed by the nose with its gentle expression of exotic spices and subtle aromas of flint and stone dust. One or two other experienced tasters felt reminded of the great dry Riesling wines from Wachau supremo Emmerich Knoll. Full-bodied and with a rich texture the G 1998 demonstrates plenty of power, in my eyes to some extent at the expense of elegance. (MS)