2019 Calvert Pinot Noir

This is a pup of a Pinot Noir, full of youthful vigor. In addition to its floral and cherry-infused nose, there is a bouquet garni of woody herbs, which could be partly explained by a 25% whole bunch component, as well as in-bunch variation, which was a signature of this vintage at Felton Road, according to winemaker Blair Walter. While silken and satisfying, there is an innate energy and this youthful expression has a brace of gravelly tannins that build toward the end. The sinewy, fragrant and fresh finish provides line and length. Far too young to be approaching. Give it a minimum of 2 years to get into its groove.

Fruit from Calvert Vineyard (vine age 17 years). 25% whole cluster. 16 months' élevage in 30% new oak. From a vineyard on pedogenic lime – see Central Otago – digging deep by Julia. The Felton Road team view Calvert as producing particularly intense wines. And indeed the nose is very intense, with notes of candied flowers and a hint of beetroot. Quite a grip on the back palate which makes me suggest you hold off drinking this for a year or so. There was little tannic grip on the Bannockburn or the Cornish Point. Almost burly but, thankfully, not at all surly. This should bloom beautifully in bottle if you're patient but it's a little sweeter than most burgundies. (JR)