2019 Arbois Trousseau Berangers

Since vintage 2018, this iconic parcel, previously farmed by Jacques Puffeney (the 'Pope of Arbois'), has been part of Domaine du Pélican. Jacques Puffeney created a Trousseau cuvée called Les Bérangères out of this parcel, which gained worldwide recognition among Trousseau lovers. Montigny-lès-Arsures, the small village where their winery and this Arbois Béranger parcel are located, is the capital of Trousseau, much in the same way as Pupillin is the capital of Poulsard. The soil is made of alluvium and silt over grey marls, stony enough to allow good drainage. This soil composition is particularly appropriate for Trousseau. The vines are over 50 years old. South and south-west exposure and fairly low elevation (circa 300–330 m) ensure good maturation. Ageing was in 228- and 350-litre barrels. No new oak. Pale cherry with a touch of blue. Even more vibrant and zesty on the nose than the Pinot, in fact by comparison the Pinot smells sweet. Lifted with wild strawberry and even a little stemmy though I don’t think there are any stems here, a transparent wine with no make-up. Herbal flavours and sour cherry. Or is it just that the wine is so transparent? Herbal and fresh on the finish too and surprisingly persistent. Fine texture and dry, mouth-watering finish. Lean and dry but not in the least thin.  (JH)