2007 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese

A 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese continues in the sappy, juicy mold of the Domprobst A.P. #12. Fresh apple (think of the best Normandy cider) mingles with anise and vanilla. The freshness here is combined with a relatively spare texture; and the finish surprises with the intensity and length of salt and stone that accompany its sheer refreshment. In fact, if wine can be profoundly refreshing, here is a case in point. This bracing young Spatlese is likely to undergo more dramatic changes in bottle, I predict, than many of the other Schaefer wines of the vintage. But I would not hesitate to plan on charting those changes over the next 20 years. Willi Schaefer and Christoph harvested until mid-November. “There wasn’t any botrytis until the end of October,” relates Schaefer senior, “and what little botrytis there was, was clean.” Some of the excitement here, though, comes at the light end of the Oechsle scale. This year’s Schaefer Kabinetts represent outstanding values. But more than that, they display by turns delicacy and density, jewel-like intricacy and simplicity, elective affinity for our appetites and mystery, such as only a great work of nature confers. And if you prefer that they taste less sweet, just don’t start drinking them before they reach age ten! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300