2018 Dawson & James Chardonnay

Chardonnay from the Meadowbank vineyard in Derwent Valley (60 km north-west of Hobart). I10V5 clone planted in 2000. Hand-picked on 17 March 2018. Whole-bunch pressed, fermented in burgundy-coopered French oak barriques, 40% new and is allowed to go through partial malolactic conversion. Maturation in barrels on yeast lees with regular lees stirring. TA 7.95 g/l, pH 3.2. Winemakers Peter Dawson and Tim James. A tiny bit reduced on the nose and palate, with the richness and tang of creamy goat's cheese (tastes glorious, even if that's a tasting note that doesn't sound great) but masses of pink grapefruit, pomelo and citron, a fleeting breath-on-lip kiss of beeswax that leaves an impression of frangipani, rosemary and marzipan. Flecks of sweet, smoky butterscotch tucked into rich, deep-gold peach and clementine. The acidity has stunning concentration, whorled into a conical vortex, ripe and beautifully curvaceous. Complex and arresting, it took my breath away. (TC)