2005 Hermitage Ex Voto (3xBlanc, 3xRouge)

This massively broad, rich white stood up beautifully to the rich cheesy Savoie speciality tartiflette. Honey and rich. Full and broad. Throat warming. Rich yet dry. Hint of malt whisky sweet oak. Very long. Tastes as though it's going to be sweet – but it isn't, despite the Marsanne/marzipan notes. Stood up very well in the glass over two hours. (JR)

A spectacularly dense, smoky Syrah, the 2005 E. Guigal Ermitage Ex-Voto, aged for 42 months in 100% new French oak, possesses awesome notes of cassis and blackberry fruit, graphite, new leather, and smoked earth on the nose. The oak elevage shows, but this has the depth and fruit to handle it. On the palate, the wine is beautifully structured and concentrated, showing loads of tannin, good acidity, and a classic, focused, and very long finish. Still a pup, this needs 5-8 years minimum and should have a very long life. This cuvee was first introduced in 2001, is only produced in top vintages, and comes from the vineyards of Bessards (30%), Greffieux (30%), L’Hermitage (20%), and Murets (20%).

Saturated ruby. Pungent red and dark berries on the nose, with exotic floral and spice qualities expanding with air. Sweet, deep and incisive raspberry and bitter cherry flavors are energized by tangy minerals and pick up smoke and floral notes on the back end. The lush and creamy finish leaves a trail of spice and red fruit notes in its wake. This wine is built for cellaring but is showing a lot of complexity today.