2015 Dalsheimer Hubacker Auslese

There's a tradition in Keller family to have 3-star wine for best Hubacker Auslese but effectively its the same level as a Goldkapsel. Smells more like a botrytised wine but apparently none. Complex, herbal, smoky, oily minerality. Immense freshness even with all that sweetness – tastes less sweet than the Morstein Auslese, with more smoky grapefruit (thiol-like?) character. Oranges and apricot on the palate. Intensely pure and tightly held together by the acidity. Creamy texture and fine length. A baby. (JH)