2019 Niederberg Helden GG 30 20
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If one had not noticed already, the fragrance of Pauly’s Helden Grosses Gewächs positively outs him as a dedicated follower of spontaneous fermentation. However, his interpretation with aromas of fresh green herbs, elderflower blossom, wet grass and spring meadow is a far cry from the funky pungency which early proponents of that back-to-nature approach used to fancy. One thing the nose does not prepare you for is the serious mineral punch the palate packs and which, to some extent, emphasises the pithy side of grapefruit as the main representative of fruit, supported by crunchy peach. Probably not a wine for the faint-palated, but fans of liquid rock will adore it. Political correctness forbids me to quote James Brown’s greatest hit. (MS)
Punteggi della critica
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The Lieser 2019 Niederberg Helden Riesling GG is clear and intense on the remarkably fine, flinty and herbal nose. Full-bodied, lush and intense, with fine crystalline acidity and slate astringency, this is an elegant, round, finessed and mouth-filling Helden. It is as fine and elegant as rarely seen before and is carried by lingering salinity and even hidden tannins. It's almost as part was vinified in oak, which would be a more than tolerable stylistic change since it would be for the better. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.
AP number 30 20. Greenish tinge to the pale straw. Heavier, nuttier nose than some of its stablemates. Though overall it's still sprightly, it's just a little bitter on the finish. (JR)
A very cool, sleek and pristine wine with a lot of mineral energy driving it along at a brisk clip. Juicy yet very clean finish with a lot of berry notes. Drink or hold.