2020 Polish Hill Clare Valley Riesling

The most famous Clare Riesling of all, made by arch screwcap proponent Jeffrey Grosset. All estate fruit at 460 m on silt and shale overlaying gravel and blue slate. Very hard rock. Free-run juice only. Fermentation over two to three weeks, then two months on lees. All eight components (blocks and clones) kept separate until blending, a process that can take two weeks. Certified organic and biodynamic. Clones GM 110, 198 and 156. This is the most 'German' smelling! Great breadth and depth. Seems a tad fruitier than it was once. This is a wine with proven ageing potential and spreads all across the palate. Savoury elements as well as that purity of steely Riesling fruit. Real spine here. The M-word (mineral) seems appropriate. Long and satisfying. But overall uncompromising. (JR)