2002 Monzinger Halenberg Auslese (3 star) GK 24 03

The special selection notches up 9.5% alcohol and tastes much, much more reserved, much more concentrated – and more tart. This really is a baby and demonstrates why winemakers with long experience of wines' evolution, not wine tasters, are to be trusted on these special bottlings. Granny Smith apples this time, but mainly a low mutter of 'Leave me alone'. (JR)