2003 Piesporter Goldtropchen Spatlese Auction 16 04

The quality and ripeness of material in Goldtropfchen were so exalted this year that Haart went outside of that vineyard to assemble material suitable for two Kabinetts and a Spatlese. The overall impression here is especially rich and full for the genre, with smoky, malty accents to a creamy concentrate of tropical fruits, marzipan, white raisin and brown spices. Showy and overtly rich, yet this is strikingly pure, even refined, and exhibits a refreshingly juicy pink grapefruit component in the finish, with toasted nuts and pungent citrus zest helping to offset the sweetness. 1 star.