2017 Hipping Riesling GG 43 18

Gillot points out that this fourth installment of her Hipping Grosses Gewächs reflects a collection of parcels that now includes southern, southeastern and even northern exposures. As with the corresponding village-level bottling (or indeed this vintage’s Nackenheimer), scents and zesty, tart-edge palate presence of lemon and apple together make for a brightly juicy and invigoratingly piquant as well as texturally polished performance. There is also a striking saline and seemingly protein-rich (certainly umami-rich!) savor – incorporating herbal and nutty nuances as well – which puts me in mind of oyster liquor or mussel stock and lends mouthwatering depth that carries into the seriously sustained finish. The sense of concentration here is almost implosive, but without the severity conveyed by the corresponding Pettenthal.

Dense greenish straw colour. Very gloriously ripe. Almost coconut richness! And then acidity. Arguably going for opulence rather than purity though there is still chewiness on the bitter grapefruit finish. Very long but not yet quite integrated. Bitter overrides fruit for the moment but I'm sure it will all come right in the end. Kerpow! (JR)

Succulent and deep with a lot of ginger and galgant, alongside the fresh-pineapple note that’s typical for this site. Real concentration and a long, clean mineral finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Respekt certification. Drink or hold.