2003 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese (Auction Res)

Not quite as piercing on the nose as I'd expect of a more typical vintage. But with definite evolution on the nose. Simply sublime gossamer texture, and a bit of toffeed green apple fruit on the palate. Gosh, just what the Mosel is all about. Neat but not lingering finish. (JR)

The bouquet blossoms in a floral way that seems typical for the 2003 vintage here, as is this wine's imposingly creamy texture. Elegance, lift, clarity, refinement and florality characterize the flavors throughout. In another reflection of the vintage, the essential fruit here is quince rather than apple, tinged with bittersweet vanilla and flowers and a subtle hint of white raisin. Ethereal fruit, flowers and wet stone really cling in the finish. 2 stars.

About a third of this wine was poured out, then the bottle was violently shaken to help rid it of CO2 and to allow the SO2 to blow-off some. It was then allowed to rest and aerate before being tasted. Notes of smoky minerals can be discerned in the nose of the 2003 Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Light to medium-bodied, broad, and softly-textured, it displays a satiny personality with gun-flint flavors. Drink it between 2010 and 2020. Importers: Rudi Wiest Selections by Cellars International, Inc., Carlsbad, CA; tel. (760) 566-0499; also Chapin Cellars, imported by Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700